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Innerwear

Innerwear, in particular the petticoat, creates the foundation for a lolita outfit. Corsets, binders, minimizers and shapewear can all be used to mold your body to better fit your clothes, if you so choose to. Of all the listed innerwear, only the petticoat is completely necessary for the lolita look, though bloomers are highly recommended and underskirts are good for taller lolitas so dresses reach their knee area.

Petticoats are voluminous, multi-layered skirts that are worn under outfits to create poof. Good quality petticoats are made of organza/organdy or chiffon. Tulle petticoats may initially appear to give large amounts of poof, but they deflate quickly. In more OTT (over-the-top) styles, or if the petticoats are flatter than desired, they can be layered to create a larger poof. They are essential in achieving the flared skirt necessary for the lolita silhouette. Petticoats are divided into two basic types: Bell-Shaped/Cupcake and A-Line (see Volume 1: The Basics for more information). A good petticoat is absolutely essential in every beginner’s wardrobe, and should be one of your first purchases, regardless of style.

  • Bell-Shaped/Cupcake
    - Recommended Brands
         ♥ Classical Puppets (taobao / clobbaonline )
             [NOTE: CP’s petticoats have seriously declined in quality lately, so
              exercise caution when buying new pieces from them]
         ♥ Angelic Pretty (japan / usa)
         ♥ Bunny House (facebook)
         ♥ MeLikesTea (website)
    - Aside from buying a bell petticoat, you can also achieve the same silhouette by stacking a shorter A-line on top of a longer one, or rolling up the waistband of the top one to shorten it. You can also pin the outer layers of an A-line to create a bell silhouette as well.
  • A-Line
    - Recommended Brands
         ♥ Classical Puppets (taobao / clobbaonline )
         ♥ Malco Modes (website)
         ♥ VictorianGirlDress (ebay)
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Avoid Halloween store petticoats, and all tulle petticoats with only one or two layers, as they will deflate very quickly, are itchy, and can even tear up tights on occasion. Also avoid most square dancing petticoats as they tend to have the wrong silhouette for lolita. They are usually too flared at the bottom, even compared to an A line petticoat.

Also keep in mind that petticoats are never meant to be seen! It should not be visible under normal circumstances (the wind catching your skirt happens sometimes, of course). Please make sure that your petticoat isn’t too long and that you’re wearing it at the correct place at your hips/waist so that it’s not peeking out from underneath your skirt.

While a puffy petticoat provides the quintessential lolita shape, and bloomers serve to preserve the wearer’s modesty, lolita undergarments can also have a purpose that’s more decorative than functional.

  • Bloomers: puffy, gathered shorts that are the “underpants” of lolita fashion. They provide both modesty and comfort and are meant to be worn over your normal underwear and things like tights, but under your petticoat and skirt. Bloomers are not generally meant to be shown, but in old school lolita it is sometimes acceptable to have an inch or two of the bottom ruffle or lace peeking out of the skirt.
  • Underskirts: worn over your petticoat but under your skirt and can be used to lengthen a skirt hem or add another layer of detail to the hemline (particularly useful for tall lolitas). Note in the example below how you can see how the bottom is meant to be seen under the skirt, but not the top part, which is made of basic satin. Do not use a petticoat as an underskirt.
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From left to right: Back Frill Bloomer by Angelic Pretty, Underskirt by Baby, the Stars Shine Bright (courtesy of ghostintheforest)

There are also undergarments that, while not being lolita-specific, are often worn with lolita to modify the shape of the body for the sake of fitting into garments better. They are not necessary, but can be useful.

  • Corsets: can be worn under an outfit to create a smoother shape or narrower waistline. On occasion, they can also be worn as outerwear, but this is generally not advised as most corsets interfere with the silhouette when worn over dresses or skirts. Corsets can also provide a hard shell, preventing elastic waistbands from digging into your waist and distributing their weight more easily, which provides a good foundation for the layers of petticoats often seen in lolita.
  • Chest Binders/Minimizers: can be used to fit into dresses that are a tad too tight on the bust by squeezing the breast tissue down to a flatter shape. Sports bras can also be used for a slight reduction, as opposed to a more prominent reduction that a proper binder can provide. This option should be used carefully, as fitting into a dress does not automatically mean it fits well. Do not use Ace bandages to bind your chest; this is extremely dangerous and can even result in damaging your ribs or give you a difficult time with breathing properly. Excessive use of chest binders can also cause breast tissue damage, so please exercise caution.
  • Other Shapewear such as Spanx can be worn to smooth the entire figure.
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Main Pieces

Main pieces come in three basic categories: Skirts, Jumperskirts, and One piece Dresses.

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From left to right: Snow White SK by Infanta, Le Ballet JSK by Chess Story,
Silent Moon OP by Moi-même Moitié
  • Skirts (1st img), sometimes abbreviated to SK, can have plain waistbands which can be un-shirred, partially shirred or fully shirred, or they can be high-waisted, sometimes with details like corset lacing. Some brands will occasionally release miniskirts, but all lolita main pieces should be approximately knee-length, so many miniskirts are not suited for lolita. However, skirts that are labeled as “mini skirts” from Metamorphose tend to be longer (45cm), so they would still be suitable for lolita if you’re shorter in stature.
  • Jumperskirts (2nd img), or JSKs, are sleeveless dresses which have shoulder straps, a halter-neck or occasionally no straps at all in a bustier style. A JSK should be worn with a blouse to cover the shoulders. A cardigan or bolero worn over the JSK can be an acceptable substitute.
    - You may see some sleeveless dresses listed as “sun dresses”. This term is sometimes used for dresses that are particularly suitable for warm weather, and may even be shown being worn with no blouse (usually seen with older dresses, although JetJ does this frequently for a more “elegant lady” sort of look). One should probably still wear a blouse or some sort of shoulder covering though when wearing them, as this is often seen as faux pas in most situations.
    - There are also underbust JSKs, which are like a cross between a normal JSK and a high-waisted skirt. Only recommended for smaller bust sizes since they can frame larger ones awkwardly.
  • One pieces (3rd img), or OPs, are dresses that have sleeves, and the only category that can be worn without a blouse (although layering a blouse underneath an OP is still quite popular, especially in colder weather). Some lolita dresses straddle the line between JSK and OP, but most are clearly one or the other.

Salopettes are more casually styled dresses that look like a cross between a JSK and a romper dress. Though many lolita brands regularly release salopettes, they are generally not suitable for lolita due to how short the skirts tend to be, as well as not being poofy enough to create the iconic lolita silhouette. They are best avoided for those who are large in the bust or general rib area, as they often look awkward.

Acceptable Skirt Lengths
The most commonly-accepted length for a lolita skirt to be would be knee-length. However, there is some leeway in terms of having the skirt be slightly shorter or longer. A couple inches above the knee is still considered acceptable, and skirts can go as long as mid-calf and still be considered lolita so long as it still retains poof. Ankle-length (and longer) dresses have been known to surface every once in a while, but their status as lolita are often debated within the community because they are more associated with aristocrat fashion.

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Tops

Lolita tops fall into two main categories; blouses, which are generally more formal, and cutsews, which are more casual. However, like the line between JSKs and OPs, there can be some crossover between the two types.

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  • Blouses (1st img) are normally made of a non-stretch fabric and fasten with buttons.
  • Cutsews (2nd img) are made of jersey or other stretch fabrics and are often slipped on over the head like a t-shirt.  However, a plain t-shirt is not a cutsew. Brands will often release lolita-styled t-shirts though, which have puffier sleeves and sometimes have lace detailing. These t-shirts would be acceptable.
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Head Wear

A lolita coordinate requires head wear of some kind, but there are many different styles to choose from. Headbows (also known as “katyusha” in Japanese or “KC”) are the most easily identifiable lolita head wear, while things like rectangle headdresses are more reminiscent of the earlier days of the fashion. The important thing is to keep your choice of head wear consistent with the overall outfit styling. Mini-hats should be approached with caution.

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From left to right: Pico Frill Headbow by Angelic Pretty, Half Bonnet by Surface Spell, Georgette Frill Symphony Canotier by Angelic Pretty, Bonnet by Surface Spell, Velveteen Twin Bow Headband by Victorian Maiden, Vintage Cameo Ribbon Barrette by Metamorphose Temps de Fille, A/P Rose Lace Boater Hat by Alice and the Pirates, Melty Ribbon Chocolate Beret by Angelic Pretty, Fjord Pirate Hat by Alice and the Pirates, Bear Pal Silk Hat by Alice and the Pirates, Holy Night Story Mini Hat by Angelic Pretty, Butterfly Crown Head Dress by Baby the Stars Shine Bright, Maria Veil by Baby the Stars Shine Bright, Sleeping Beauty Rose Corolla by Baby the Stars Shine Bright, Secret Library Ribbon Hair Combs by Metamorphose Temps de Fille

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Socks/Hosiery

Some form of legwear is necessary for the lolita look and, like with head wear, there are a number of different styles to choose from to complement the overall outfit. Socks and tights may be printed or plain, and socks sometimes have lace on the top.

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From left to right: Princess Logo Crew Socks by Angelic Pretty, Torchon Lace Knee High Socks by Innocent World, Lace Up Ribbon Over Knee Socks by Baby the Stars Shine Bright, Sugar Dream Dome Tights by Angelic Pretty

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Shoes

Lolita shoes range from the traditional rocking horse shoes (abbreviated as RHS) and mary janes to the currently more popular tea parties. Typically lolita shoes are feminine and formal with a round toe, but come in a range of styles, including hefty, chunky platforms for more old school looks. Shoes, especially for classic and gothic lolita, can be offbrand and still suit the lolita aesthetic, but the most important thing is to ensure the shoes match the coordinate in both color and style. Avoid open-toed shoes, sandals, and ballet flats.

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From left to right: British Glitter Mary Janes by Jane Marple, Heart and Diamond Ribbon Short Boots by Innocent World, Tea Party Shoes by Angelic Pretty, Baby Victoir Shoes by Baby the Stars Shine Bright, Melty Chocolate Shoes by Angelic Pretty
  • More casual shoes such as oxford shoes, brogues or ankle boots can be acceptable in toned down styles. This does not include sneakers. Ever.
  • Tea parties are almost exclusively considered as shoes for sweet outfits, but it really depends on the overall theme of one’s coord. One could, in theory, use them for, say, in a goth coord that is more “cutesy” in nature. In general though, they are for sweet coords.
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Outerwear

Outerwear, while not a lolita necessity, is useful for both providing warmth in colder climates, and as an alternative to blouses or cutsews in warmer climates. For example, a JSK, can be worn under a bolero instead of over a blouse or cutsew. Lolita-appropriate cardigans should end above your hips. Boleros and cardigans can also improve the color balance of coords, helping to prevent skirt and blouse coords from looking too blocky.

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From left to right: Lovely Cat Ears Coat by Angelic Pretty, Triple Ribbon Bolero by Angelic Pretty, Mohair Frill Cardigan by Mary Magdalene, Teddy Ribbon Cloak by Metamorphose temps de fille, Fairy Topialium Cape by Baby the Stars Shine Bright, Sonnet for Juliet Lace Shawl by
Baby the Stars Shine Bright

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Bags

Since more than often than not you’ll be pocket-less in lolita, bags are essential when out and about. Most brand bags do not have a lot of room to store items in so many lolitas carry just the essentials in their bag or will even carry multiple bags. Stuffed animal bags in particular are notorious for being able to fit very little within them, with some of them only being capable of fitting a smartphone at most. 2-Way/3-Way bags are special bags that can be adjusted to be worn different ways. The example below shows a 3-Way bag that can be adjusted to be used as a backpack, handbag, and shoulder bag. Many shoulder bags will include two different chain lengths so that one can swap between cross body or shoulder. Most standard bags are made of synthetic leather, with the exception of tote bags, which tend to be cotton.

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From left to right: Rose Garden Bag by Victorian Maiden, Dramatic Princess Shoulder Bag by Angelic Pretty, Shiny Ribbon 3 Way Rucksack by Angelic Pretty, Star Pony Bag by Angelic Pretty, Kumya chan’s Christmas Holly Night Tote Bag by Baby the Stars Shine Bright
A/P Treasure Box Bag II by Alice and the Pirates

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Jewelry

Jewelry is not an essential part of a lolita coordinate, but does add detail and cohesion to an outfit. 

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From left to right: Dolly Cross Necklace by Angelic Pretty, Bright Starry Night Bracelet by Baby the Stars Shine Bright, Lace Frill Wristcuffs by Victorian Maiden, Coffin Ink Ring by Moi-même-Moitié, Magical Angel Pierced Earring by Angelic Pretty, ALICE and the PIRATES Crown Brooch by
Alice and the Pirates

A Note On Piercings and Body Modifications
Compared to many other alternative fashions, piercings and body mods in lolita fashion tend to be kept to a minimum due to its largely cute and girly aesthetic. Because of the arguably potential jarring nature of piercings with lolita fashion, many lolitas choose to either take them out, or will coordinate their piercings to match their outfit. Although tattoos can be covered by layers of clothing (especially on the torso and legs), if you are going to show your tattoos, it may be worth bearing in mind whether or not it will be a distraction to your coord, or if it plays off it well. Everyone is of course free to do as they please with their body, and there are no doubt lolitas out there that wear their modifications quite well, but these however are some pointers you may wish to consider.

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Miscellaneous

Other items that one might use in a coord. Not an exhaustive list, however.

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From left to right: Snow Rabbit Fur Scarf by Angelic Pretty, Tulle Lace Short Gloves by Alice and the Pirates, Dramatic Fur Mittens by Angelic Pretty, 2 Way Muff Pochette by Innocent World, Fluffy Earmuffs by Chantilly, Lace Jabot Brooch by Excentrique, Heart Heart Apron by Baby the Stars Shine Bright, Lace Chiffon Frill Parasol by Victorian Maiden, Quartet Chocolate Echarpe by Angelic Pretty

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